I have trouble explaining how I create because a lot of it is an inner process driven by instinctual awareness of the medium. When I breathe in an aroma my brain automatically breaks up the scent into the parts of composition. (I also do the same with foods and their taste). Then I can see how it is formed and which parts I can use to recreate the whole I am seeking. There is also a process of evaluating the emotions and impressions of each scent-its color or energy or feeling. When I say the oils speak to me I really do mean it. Plants have personalities and these cross over to their essences. This is why I prepare my brief for a fragrance first. It is from that description of what I am trying to achieve that I choose and fit the ingredients. I will admit that sometimes there is a direction change and the fragrance takes on its own independent form but that just means I have misinterpreted the oils and the result then guides me to a new idea. Its such a beautiful organic living process.
Recently I was deeply offended by the printed comments from the address made at the World Perfumery Congress about the qualification of a perfumer and their right to call themselves such a name. On the one hand I do agree that many take the name undeservedly because what they are doing is what I call 'blending oils'. On the other hand why is a person not trained by large chemical corporations any less deserving if what they are practicing is the actual art of Perfumery. To clarify what I am talking about I believe a TRUE PERFUMER has studied their medium and understands the composition, chemistry and effects each has. Formulations of a true perfumer are a complex set of many different ingredients that when mixed make a complete and whole scent of which the parts are inseparable. An OIL BLENDER takes a small number of oils, of which they have a basic knowledge, and blends them in set parts and the result is a scent of which the parts are easily identifiable in the whole.
There are many analogies to illustrate what I am talking about but those of you bothering to read this know what I mean. The best I can think of is that a person who puts together an IKEA bookcase is not a cabinet maker. Even though they bought the pieces and managed to put it together just like the picture -and not everyone can achieve this- and it looks neat and does the job, it is not the same as a person who takes the space and the use and takes raw materials and prepares and treats and cuts and carves and shapes and fits the unit together into the space seamlessly so it looks like it was already there. The process is infinitely more complex and the results are measurable by the beauty as well the craftsmanship along with the functionality. Does that make sense? Well it does to me and that is how I measure myself as a perfumer. I dont believe it should matter where you learnt the craft-only that you have the skills and know the processes from beginning to end and are able to do all of them. A true perfumer should make their perfumes completely from beginning to end taking responsibility for the whole process and the result.
A perfumer is NOT someone who gives a brief to someone else to make it. A perfumer is NOT someone who mixes together a couple of fragrant oils. A perfumer is NOT someone who only makes scented products. A perfumer is also NOT only able to be qualified by training with a large flavors and fragrances company.
If it ever comes down to a legality of terms-and I can see the attempt being made to push out perfumers like myself who are outside of industry control- I am more than willing to call myself an Alchemist of Scent. No regulations or laws will ever be able to stop me from doing what I have made my life purpose. It took me 35 years to get to this point and I will live and die a perfumer.
